Tropical John’s Bed Preparation Recipe

2-3 inches high quality compost
2-3 inches expanded shale
Organic fertilizer
Rock powders/lava sand, greensand, assorted minerals
Dried Molasses
2-3 inches native, hardwood, or cedar mulch

Instructions:
Till the soil 6-8 inches deep. Add compost and shale to specified quantities. Add organic fertilizer at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. feet. Apply lava sand, greensand, and assorted minerals as a light dusting over the entire area. Dried molasses should be added at 10 lbs. per 1000 sq. feet. Roto-till entire area until all ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Do not remove any existing soil unless the bed area needs to be lowered in order to add these high quality ingredients. The final bed should be no higher than your existing foundation line (bricks meet the concrete). Away from the house, there are no limitations to the height of the beds. I do not recommend the use of peat moss or pine bark mulch as a compost additive. A high quality compost, that may cost a little more, will pay off in the long run. Rake entire area smooth and add a light layer of organic fertilizer prior to planting. Once you have planted always top dress with shredded mulch. Top dress of choice would be native, hard wood or cedar mulch, to a depth of 2-3 inches.

Note:
Due to the beneficial fungi in the soil, I no longer recommend adding horticultural cornmeal to basic bed prep. If beds are prepped properly, fungal issues should not be a problem. If they occur later, you can add the cornmeal at that time.

Could save money and grief in the future

Oh, oh, there’s a mud tube climbing up the foundation of your house! It’s time for action: you may have termites.  If this is your house, you could be in for a big expense. You have to get rid of the wood-chomping pests and then repair the damage they did.  It could be much worse if they have been at work for some time.

As with any problem that causes deterioration of a building, early detection prevents extensive damage. Get a termite inspection. There is no charge for the inspection (unless a wood destroying inspection report is necessary). It may include inspection of the foundation, woodwork and the attic. The inspector will also check for ants, bugs and fungus.

The peace of mind a “no termites” verdict brings is worth the price but if infestation is found, damage can be brought to a halt and the problem eliminated within days.

Termites are the most destructive insect pests of wood in the United States.  They cause more than $2 billion in damage each year, that is more property damage than that caused by windstorms and fire combined.  Their presence is not readily noticed because they hide their activity behind wallboards, siding or wood trim and a typical colony may exceed 1 million insects.

Prevention methods that will make your house a less likely target for termites is one of the simplest things you can do.   Keeping wood debris away from your home/building and using control techniques like sand barriers are good examples of termite prevention.   Wood mulch should not touch the foundation or be too close to it. The same is true for stacked firewood.  Old tree stumps near the building should be removed, along with roots. Correcting these conditions can reduce the likelihood of a termite problem.

Other common conditions that encourage termite infestation include earth-to-wood contact at support posts, cellulose debris and boards left in a crawlspace, improper drainage away from the structure, and inadequate ventilation in the crawlspace.

As you enter the gate at Aunt Sue’s Barn, the blackberry rows stretch across the field, enticing you with their promise of stained fingers and sun-warmed fruit.  This small farm, 10 acres in total with just under 4 under cultivation, is located on the Denton/Wise County line 15 minutes from I-35 in Denton.   Sue Newhouse, the owner, is a firm believer in letting nature lead the way.  “I’ve spent several years trying different varieties and types of fruit and produce”, she says.  “Some have worked better than others.  Some we just chalk up to experience and put them in the compost pile!”

While Sue’s farm has wonderful fruit and seasonal vegetables, the best part is how you get it; this farm is a pick your own CSA.  Community Supported Agriculture is a concept whose time has come, and integrates the community’s need for fresh, local food with the farmer’s need for a steady income.  At Aunt Sue’s Barn, an annual fee, or share, allows farm access from April through October, and members may harvest whatever is ready to pick during their visit.  During a workday at the farm last June, a TWU student from Houston mentioned she’d never before seen fruit on a tree, and often you’ll see a family with several children traversing the rows as they search for the plump, black berries that ripen in June and July.

I’ve been told several times, including by a local retail produce buyer, that you can’t get local raspberries in north Texas – they don’t grow well here, and I just have to disagree.  Aunt Sue’s has both red and yellow raspberries, the yellow being a fall berry that is amazingly sweet and rarely available in stores, as well as wyeberries – a blackberry / raspberry cross – and they are flourishing.

Sustainability is an important component to Sue’s philosophy.  The farm is irrigated completely through drip irrigation, which reduces moisture loss, and rainwater harvesting is on the “to-do” list this year to further reduce the water footprint.  Organic practices are used for soil management as well as pest control.  “We are concerned about everything we use because we eat what we grow!”, says Sue, and how can you stop a 5 year old from popping a warm, freshly-picked berry in their mouth?

Aunt Sue’s Barn currently maintains over 1000 blackberry bushes, several hundred red and yellow raspberries, asparagus (another 750 plants will be added this year) and some peaches and nectarines.    Sue is experimenting with different varieties of squash and asparagus, some heirloom, in order to see what works best for her.  Growing what you grow best – that’s her motto – and leads to fruit and vegetables that are truly a joy to eat.

This farm is “just beginning”, according to Sue, and it will be interesting to see where it goes next!  For more information go to the website at www.auntsuesbarn.com.

Onions and potatoes are available and the time to plant is near.  Many plant these early and have already planted onions.  Personally, I like to wait until Valentine’s Day to plant my potatoes and onions.  If you haven’t put those in the ground, get it done now, they are ready and now is the time.

Tomatoes and peppers can usually be planted safely the last of March or first of April – after the last killing frost – but always be prepared to cover them up if warnings are posted.  Keep some frost blankets on hand; the investment will pay off should the temperatures dip low enough to bring frost.

There are always a few die-hards who will plant the last of February or early March; we usually sell them plants 2-3 times; but they are going to try anyway.  My advice is to just hold off.

All greens, beets, broccoli, brussel  sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, kale, cali broccoli, lettuce, mustard , radish, spinach and turnips should be planted the first of February to early March; so if you haven’t, now is the time.

Beans, corn, cucumber, eggplants, cantaloupe, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, squash, tomatoes and watermelons can be planted mid-March to mid-April.

Most of our warm season grasses such as Bermuda should be planted when the soil temperatures reach 68°-70°.  This is usually around the last of April or early May. But now is the time to prepare the soil for those who are going to plant spring pastures or lawn grasses.

It is great to see the temperatures rising and spring getting near, all that brings work if you are interested in reaping a nice garden of veggies.  Hope you enjoy all the work and its reward.

The task of un-decorating

Historically, removing Christmas decorations took place on Epiphany, the 12th day after Christmas. It is the religious observance of the visit of the three kings. And it is the unofficial kickoff of the un-decorating season and a busy time for those who are prone to be more of the serious organizers.  Take your time. Use the same amount of care you used when you were putting them out for display.

New family traditions and the desire to put our homes back to normal may have moved un-decorating to an earlier date on the calendar. If decorations have been up since before Thanksgiving, removing them right after New Year’s Day may be recommended. It just might be that even your neighbors are tired of your lighted Santa, reindeer and trees. Still, many people are sad to see their own outdoor and indoor decorations go and have the finality of the season sewn up.

When taking the decorations down, remember that next Christmas will be here before you know it, so use a few tips compiled by professional decorators to get you ahead of the game for next season:

• Take photos of inside decorations and groupings you especially like so you will have a guide for next year. Box the groupings together.

• Discard broken pieces and donate redundant pieces to a charity. If you have ample storage space save the give-away items until next October and donate them when they will be more exciting and special for the recipient.  It may uplift you and your family as the season gets underway too.

• Clean decorations before storing them. Dust shiny tree ornaments. Clean white cotton objects, like white lambs, with a toothbrush and then coat with cornstarch. Toss artificial poinsettias in a bag with a half cup of salt to move the dust.

• Store decorations thematically or in their original boxes. For tree ornaments, it can be convenient to store according to color. Next year it will be easier to evenly distribute colors on the tree.

• Put artificial trees the in their original boxes to protect them for future use and for convenient storage.

• Store outdoor decorations together in the garage, basement or attic.

by Owen Strand

Do it yourself and save some cash.  You can find out how to do just about anything on the internet today and the fact is it will take you through a multitude of home repairs and redo’s one step at a time.  It can’t be too hard right?  That is possibly true for many repairs and updates but there are a few you should steer very clear of and leave them to the professionals.  Let’s face it, a lump in the spackling or gap in the flooring are some things we can all live with, a water leak that ends up rotting the bathroom cabinet or a spark flying each time you plug into a kitchen outlet is an entirely different beast.  Look out for projects that require more expertise than any of us can obtain through a quick read or video view.

Three major areas that should cause you extra consideration: Electric, Gas and Water:

Electrical Repairs
If you are extremely comfortable switching out a ceiling fan, they are among the simplest of electrical repairs.  But don’t be fooled even a bit by that MINOR word in this type of (minor) repair.  It is still electricity and electricity is extremely dangerous for a novice and should be approached with extreme caution.  If your electric repairs go beyond the very simple, call in a professional.  There are two different negative outcomes in the diy electric arena where mistakes create extreme consequences.   Get it wrong and electricity can cause a home fire or worse, get it wrong and electrocution could occur for someone in the home.

Gas and Gas Appliance Repairs
Most diy gas work around the house is actually other home repairs that require an appliance to be moved or replaced.  Whether you are moving a gas appliance to make repairs, moving a wall or replacing a simple gas water heater, the critical issue is assuring that a leak does not exist after reconnection.  The problem for a diy-er in this area is two -fold.  Working with gas is dangerous at the time and dangerous after, should the repairs not have been made 100% correctly.  Save yourself worry and maybe extra cost, call on the professional for this critical fix-it-upper. Note that monoxide poisoning kills more than 400 people per year in the United States alone, it is not worth the risk.

Plumbing
The very smallest water leak can lead to thousands of dollars worth of damage if it’s not caught in time. If you’re a capable DIY-er and there is existing plumbing in place, you can possibly manage some minor repairs.  Things like replacing faucets or changing out shower heads. Where you can get in over your head is if you try to modify your plumbing system; things like extending hot water lines and re-routing sewer pipes. Although this isn’t as dangerous as electric work, plumbing problems can get out of hand fast and lead to an expensive and timely fix. Remember –with water, if there’s a way out, water will find it.

My Dad’s ole barber would always say, “I won’t do the plumbing and he shouldn’t cut hair” Maybe, he had that right all along.